Should i mod my nerf longshot

Anyway, enough horsing around. Slide the breech assembly back together with the plunger tube and begin reseating it into the shell. These steps are more simple and only require switching very similar pieces in and out of the shell. Here we are. All the new pieces are inserted and screwed down. Double check your work against this picture to make sure everything is properly installed. That is a story for another day. This is a pretty quick, helpful little mod.

And you can use almost anything to get it working. This is called a stock block and it prevents the Longshot stock from being able to collapse. Basically, you just shove anything that will fit inside the stock of the Longshot. Extend the bottom half of the stock all the way. Then put something in there that will not fold under pressure. I just used some small plastic bottles that I had around the house. Your Nerf Longshot should have transformed into quite the powerful blaster. Your blaster should be hitting ranges of around feet.

Your email address will not be published. But if you try sometimes, you just might find… You get what you need! And if you bought the recent Nerf Elite Longshot re-release, what you need is this mod guide!

Required Tools. Nerf Longshot Mod Guide Begin! Removing the Bolt Handle. Unscrewing the Blaster. The best way to find out is to measure it or just bring your original stock spring along to the spring supply stores to match the dimensions. For the deadspace elimination, did you glue the foam in or is it held in place when the gun is reassembled? JPmod, Sealing the air release hole provides a small bit of improvement in the power and range, i measured ft difference in range with and without the sealing of the hole.

Its a very simple step in the modding process anyways, so might as well just do it to maximise the efficiency of the air flow. I guess you'd just have to keep a lookout around the smaller stores to find such items.

You could glue it in for a more secure fit though. Yes black tactical is a greatsigt but the shipping is ridiculud for in the states. Deborah, I've found that felt pads can't compress flat enough and that sometimes tends to block the bolt from being fully pulled back for proper loading and unloading of clips. You can try and see if it works for you though.

Did you use the same aftermarket spring that you used in the Raider mod for this mod? If not could you give me a link to where you bought the aftermarket spring?

Howard, Nope, the Longshot uses different springs from a Raider. Most of my aftermarket springs are custom-made from various local spring manufacturers in Singapore, so they wouldn't be avaliable from websites or in stores. You can check directly with the spring manufacturers around your area, they should be able to customise aftermarket springs to fit your blasters too. What is the highest wire diameter to use with the Longshot without breaking?

Also what did you use for the dead space removal? Howard, The Raider spring could be put into a Longshot, but its much shorter, so it'll tend to rattle around in the plunger casing and would be less efficient, you could try adding a spacer in to make it fit better.

I currently use a customised aftermarket spring with a outer diameter of 28mm, a wire thickness of approx. I've found it to be a nice combination of power yet still manageble enough for me to prime properly. I have tested using many other springs with larger wire thickness and higher spring strength too, but those were either too difficult to prime or tend to damage the internal parts.

For deadspace removal, i simply use a section of hollow 1. What kind of improvement can I expect with a Nitefinder spring, if you know? It's about all I have access to where I am. I guess if you use it the performance increase wouldn't be significant. Try to see if you can get a Big Bad Bow stock spring instead, it can fit nicely in Longshot plungers using the double spring method and provides good performance increases.

Howard, Aftermarket springs should match the original stock springs in length. For Longshots, springs should be around 5 inches in length. And could i use 20mm diameter soft rubber pads for the base of the plunger?

Yes, you can use the 20mm diameter soft rubber pads to cushion the plunger. And yes, you can use hotglue to fill up the deadspace in the plunger casing, though you'll have to see if you have sufficient access to the plunger space to do the hotglue filling method. Hi SG Nerf, How did you remove the bolt casing from the bolt? The Pictures in step 3 Thanks! Note that the bolt will need to be cut into two pieces to remove it, so don't remove the bolt. I had a seperate spare broken bolt to use as a demo, just for a clearer example.

I'm wondering if the modded darts will work with the round barrel clips that come with the raider. Also will haveing a stronger spring put wear on the orange cocking mechanism forgot the name of it? Because on the one in the pictures they have the front pump mod which I imagine putss equal force on both sides as opposed to just one side. Okay, im trying to take apart my Longshot but the bolt wont come apart. I have tried using a screwdriver to pry it apart and just pulling on the two parts but they just wont budge.

Seth, If the modded or customised foam darts still follow similiar dimensions to stock foam darts, they should be able to be used in all standard clips and drum magazines. Using a stronger aftermarket spring will put more stress on all the components, and there will naturally be higher wear and tear.

One of the methods i used to reduce the uneven stress on the bolt sled is to custom-build a polycarbonate shotgun grip for my modded Longshots, it becomes much more ergonomic to use and increases rate-of-fire RoF too.

I'll post up a guide soon on how i built my custom-built polycarbonate shotgun grips. Satee Jon, Steadily increase the strength you put in when prying apart the charging handle, the 2 parts will eventually detach. What type of device do i use? Or do i just use my hands? The charging handle is the only thing holding me back.

Hunterer, If the Air Restrictor AR is not removed, the overall performance increase would be much less, simply because the air-flow is still restricted. Satee Jon, Use a flat-head screwdriver, wedge it between the charging handle and the blaster casing put a layer of cloth in between to prevent scratches , then carefully pry the charging handle out.

What prevents the charging handle from coming apart? I put it together myself, it shouldn't be that hard. Several people have tried with both the flathead screwdriver and their bare hands.

I need a king arthur to pry the sword from the stone! Satee Jon, Its just a four-pronged plastic catch that secures the charging handle together, you can spot it in the disassembled charging handle photo in my mod guide. Yes, it can sometimes require a fair bit of strength to pry apart the charging handle. Just apply increasing strength steadily, and once enough force is applied, the charging handle will pop out.

I just did everytthing on here, and it makes the really loud noise. Ryan, As mentioned in my mod guide, after the removal of the Air Restrictors AR , the blaster will exhibit a loud cracking sound when fired, as there are no more ARs to cushion the plunger impact on the bolt. Therefore, it is highly recommended to apply additional padding to the plunger head.

Old rags can be used, but it'll be better if you can use proper impact absorbing padding. Try finding suitable soft foam padding at the hardware stores in your area. Ian, Well, if you are just doing a simple direct barrel replacement not an air-tight brass breech , then it'll be good to allow some space around the dart because the dart would already be losing power straight after leaving the bolt, so any friction against the barrel wall will slow it down.

On the other hand, air-tight brass breeches work by building air pressure behind the foam dart to accelerate it all the way through until the dart exits from the barrel, hence the need for an exact barrel and dart fit. How do I remove the bolt assembly from the shell of the gun? I don't get how to take out the bolt assembly the space left between Step 1 and 2 on the AR Removal guide.

Julian, Make sure all the screws are removed and the surrounding components are not blocking it, then you can seperate the bolt assembly from the casing. Ah, so that's my problem. I'll check for any blocking components. Essentially replacing the Pistol half. Jordysadrummer, Yup, the Recon front barrel can be attached to the Longshot main blaster.

In general, most N-Strike "CS" series blaster accessories and components are interchangable. The foam ring pads from CD spindle casings that you mentioned can also be used for plunger padding too, try them out with a few layers and see if it works well for you. I have a question. I attempted to modify my nerf longshot. Sometimes it shoots pretty hard, but after aboiut shots its all duds.

The duds just fall out of the barrel and do nothing. It feels like when I pull the bolt back theres no pressure When I load. I have a random metal bar that looks like the one attaching the part near the clip. Does that metal bar have anything to do with the lack of range? Chris, Without a photo showing the internals of your modded Longshot, i can't see where the problem could be.

Perhaps you can take a few photos of the internals and upload to a photo sharing site ie. So that i can see if i can detect the issue. Btw, the metal bar you mentioned seems to be the metal pin that is required to attach the bolt to the bolt sled.

It has to be installed properly so that the bolt doesn't detach from the bolt sled during priming. Would it still increase performance of the gun significantly if I just put a stronger spring in it and do not take out the AR? And would i still have to put plunger padding on the plunger? John, Well, if you add in a stronger spring but still leave the AR intact, there would still be some performance improvement, but the improvement will be much less because the air flow is still restricted.

Plunger padding is recommended anytime you modify the plunger internals for more power, its a way to ensure the components can cushion the higher impacts.

What size is the spring in the middle of the picture with the springs? Can you tell me what size the spring is in the bottom after market spring? And which works better, the stock and after market spring or just the after market spring?

John, The aftermarket spring in the middle of the photo is a 14kg load steel spring, it's OD is 27mm, wire thickness is 2mm and length of around mm. The narrower aftermarket spring at the bottom of the photo is a 8kg load steel spring, with OD of 22mm, wire thickness of 1.

Whether a spring or spring combination works well is based on the total accumulated spring load. For example, a single strong spring would naturally still produce more spring power than nesting 2 or 3 weaker springs that might just add up to lower strength. So it's all a matter of testing what's suitable for your usage. There is also the issue of the users ability to prime a Longshot with very strong springs. It's not much use installing super strong springs if an individual can't even prime it properly.

Could I use a spring from a pen to replace the trigger catch spring? The spring is 1 and a half cm long and its diameter is 3 mm. Or should i use one that is two cm long and has a diameter of 4 mm. The wire thickness is the same for each but the second has more coils. John, Sure, you can try using pen springs to replace the trigger catch spring if they can fit. Just test them out seperately and see which one is more effective.

John, Yup, you can try using rubber to pad the plunger too, just make sure the rubber is soft enough to absorb the impacts effectively.

I did the air restriction removal like you told me, but now when ever i put a six dart clip into it, it basically only shoots the dart like 5 ft but when i don't use the magazine and kinda just fit the dart into the barrel, it shoots ok. Dannie, One of the reasons why you might be experiencing that issue when using clips but not when the foam darts are manually loaded may be due to your pop-up blocker plate not functioning properly. Its the black plastic piece just in front of the blaster's clip entrance.

The pop-up blocker plate enables foam darts to be "blocked" during the chambering process, thereby "pushing" them back into the bolt for the required air-seal for proper firing.

Open up your Longshot again and check that the spring that pushes up the pop-up blocker plate is installed properly and not mis-aligned. That tiny spring usually tends to shift out-of-place whenever the blaster casing is opened. I did these mods - but I didn't install a new spring.

Now I can pull the bolt back repeatedly after I cock the gun. Any Ideas what I have done wrong? Muchachos, If you can prime your Longshot properly, yet the bolt can still be moved to and fro, then it just means your bolt lock has been disabled.

You might have forgotten to put back the black plastic piece that is directly behind the bottom of the plunger, or perhaps that part is mis-aligned. Anyways, disabling the bolt lock is actually one of the popular additional side mods for Longshots most modders just remove the black plastic piece , as it allows users to open the bolt even after it is primed so that its easier to clear jams or load a dart in manually.

If i used styrofoam the kind from those restaurant takeout boxes to cushion the plunger would it work and also, will the gun still eventually break? Oscar, Styrofoam isn't so suitable as it tends to break into bits after repeated impacts, thereby clogging up the plunger and bolt.

Foam Backer Rod FBR can be used, just cut layers to fit the plunger head to ensure sufficient impact coverage. For my modded longshots, i use sections of impact absorbing dense bumper foam that can be found at hardware stores usually used for padding table corners.

They are cut to size and attached to the plunger head with double sided adhesive tape. I've got a question. I've modded my longshot no problems, done every step you posted except for the charging handle easy release and the deadspace elimination.

The charging handle is easy to remove. Fear of a Nerf Planet! Back to top 7 hcat hcat Member. Posted 25 April - AM. Community Forum Software by IP. Sign In Create Account. Javascript Disabled Detected You currently have javascript disabled. Please log in to reply Image Archive. Posted 18 April - PM Does anyone have a good nerf longshot cs-6 mod guide for spring upgrading, a video guide would be more helpful but I can use a article. Wye not? Posted 19 April - PM It would have been helpful to put a question mark at the end, when i clicked this i thought it was an actual mod guide.

Hey Im Tim and i like sub-optimal lobsters. If I seem cool feel free to facebook stalk me on twitter. Just google "Nerf Longshot mod guide" and plenty of things should pop up I'm not really sure why you'd ask this when you can just take the time to find it yourself. With that said, the thingy that is restricting your bolt the dart tooth, or bolt lock? This will be wear you cut with your pipe cutter. The O-ring seal on the plunger tubing makes sure the air compressed by the plunger assembly and spring does not leak out during compression.

Some blasters come with an excellent O-ring seal while some come with undersized or loose O-rings. Improving this seal is an easy mod that can add a few extra feet to your shots. It is worth noting that the Raider comes with a superb stock O-ring, and does not really need modification. Lubricants like WD will melt the rubber over time and destroy the O-ring. Lubricants like gun oil can penetrate the O-ring causing it to swell. This will cause the plunger to lock up inside of the plunger tubing rendering the blaster inoperable until the O-ring is replaced.

Step 1: Remove the bolt sled and plunger from the blaster see Steps1 through 5in Chapter 4 for details Step 2: Remove the plunger from the plunger tube and gently pry the O-ring out of its groove with a flat head screwdriver. Be careful not to damage the O-ring if you plan on reusing it.

You must take care not to use too much tape because it will create more pressure between the O-ring and the wall of the plunger resulting in greater resistance against the spring. When done correctly the plunger tubing should slide easily back into the plunger.

Electrical tape is not recommended for the Raider, as it is too thick. It is also recommended to wrap the Teflon tape around the plunger only once. Make sure to wash off any factory lubrication before applying the tape because it will not stick otherwise. When finished, it should look something like this: Pic. Increasing the tension of the mainspring will give your blaster a small power boost by taking up the slack that is normally present. By swapping the mainspring with a more powerful one you can easily double the power of your blaster but over time powerful springs will increase the wear on the blaster.

The stock spring was measured at around 2. The spring swap alone will allow the Raider to fire an angled shot up to 70 feet and can be found in the Orange Mod Works Stage 1 performance kit. Be careful not to make the strip of tape too wide because you will not be able to cock the plunger back if it is. This mod gives you a boost in spring tension without having to stretch out the spring.

Stretching the spring causes irreversible damage to the spring and will decrease its performance after only a few shots. A common complaint regarding the Longstrike is the inability to remove the stock without disassembling the blaster. Step 2: Remove the two stock locks use pictures in Chapter 1. This breech feeds each dart into a sealed chamber before firing. Because the blaster is firing from a closed breech it is able to achieve near perfect air seals plus the advantage of a long tight bore barrel.

With the reverse plunger system found in this blaster the volume of compressed air needed to use a sealed breech to its full potential is not present and the size of the blaster is not ideal for adding a barrel.

My longstrike is modded with OMW unleashed stage one kit. I also used plumbing tape to secure the o ring.