Why pumps overheat

Hydraulic fluid is designed to operate at a specific temperature range. As it heats, it becomes thinner and eventually it will lose the ability to lubricate moving parts. The increased friction may cause the pump to heat up, and naturally increased wear will be taking place when this is happening. On the other hand, hydraulic fluid that is too thick flows less efficiently within the system, which also results in heat buildup.

Fluid that is contaminated with dirt, debris, water and other impurities may cause heat build up in a few ways. Blocked fluid filters, pipes and strainers place undue load on the pump or even lead to pressure drops on the back side of filters that cause cavitation. Low fluid levels can result in a condition in which not enough flow is reaching the critical hydraulic components and moving parts. This is known as oil starvation and just like running your car without oil, it will increase metal-on-metal friction and lead to increased heat and wear.

Oil starvation can also be caused by clogged hydraulic filters, incorrect fluid reservoir design. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website.

These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience. Necessary Necessary. A clog in the suction line or strainer may be restricting the flow of water and can cause cavitation or loss of prime. Either of these conditions can cause the pump end to overheat. The motor name plate includes some important information.

Amperes or amps is the unit of measure of electrical current and is an indication of how hard an electrical motor is working. At a given voltage, the higher the amps the more work a motor is doing. The FLA listed on the motor name plate is the amount of current that that particular motor should draw when it is under full load. The FLA can be exceeded by the amount of the service factor, but anything higher is considered excessive and can be an indication of a motor or pump problem. Several factors can cause a pump to draw too much current.

Login here. Uh, oh. Heat is a product of power. Pool pumps use a lot of power, and therefore let off large amounts of heat. They also operate during the hottest part of the year, and usually in direct sunlight. Well, not so fast. Pool pumps are designed to work hard in heat. As a failsafe, most pool motors have a thermal disconnect designed handle if the pump overheats, or worse—overheats to the point of catching fire.

Our best solution for when your pump is kaput? Additional heat generated over and above what the pump is designed for can, and most likely will, cause a pump failure. The thermal disconnect will shut your pump off—and remember: your pool pump is central and essential to your cleaning system. Without a pump, your pool will turn green and start growing unwanted organisms, including pathogenic bacteria.

Additionally, if your pump is overheating, it may also be running dry. A pump that runs without the necessary amount of water for too long may be damaged beyond repair—to the point of melting. Not kidding. Anyone can find out whether their pool pump is overheating—just use your hand. Ahem, with caution. The easiest test is to see if your pump is too hot to touch.

There are multiple moving parts inside of a pool pump, all of which create heat. This comes at no surprise. In fact, pool pumps are designed to regulate the heat generated by friction: pump motors usually draw in ambient air to keep cool, and most metal parts are built to safely absorb heat. However, there are a series of reasons why a pool pump might fail to self-regulate its heat, including a lack of airflow, suction clogs, pressure clogs, and corroded windings and bearings.

Thankfully, most of these can be fixed without replacing your pump. Yes, most. My advice for all pool owners? Get familiar with the skimmer built into the side of the pool, which looks like a little bucket. Your pump might be sucking in air as well as water if your pool water level has fallen below halfway on the skimmer faceplate.